PUERTO VARAS

It seemed like the further we headed South, the more there was to enjoy.   We arrived in Puerto Varas from Valdivia and checked in to Casa Margouya, our hostel perfectly sandwiched between a chocolate store and a pizzeria.  While we had been told Valdivia was heavily influenced by its German past, it seemed somewhat more apparent in Puerto Varas with the architecture still very much reflecting its German heritage.  We walked through the town and along Lago Llanquihue, the picturesque lake with snow capped volcanoes Osorno and Calbuco visible in the distance.  Puerto Varas is definitely a tourist town but at least for now it still manages to maintain its charm.  For us, it was a nice change from the larger cities we had been to and a perfect opportunity to relax.  We also had some half decent coffee and food which was refreshing as Santiago’s chorillanas had left much to be desired!

With red wine averaging around $5 a bottle, it was inevitable that our next walk was to the supermarket.  We took a couple bottles back to the hostel and started some card games with two Peruvian sisters Grace & Paz who were a whole lot of fun.  We headed out for drinks at El Barista, a local cafe/bar, followed by another local pub where Grace & Paz did their best to teach us more Spanish.  With time, the new Spanish word for “drunk” was “Karly” and the girls were highly entertained by Will’s use of the words “de nada” (meaning “your welcome”) to answer everything.  As much as they were laughing, it was actually nice to practice some Spanish (whether correct or not) so muchas gracias chicas!

We spent our second day with slight headaches, enjoying the scenery once again and Will even had a sneaky nude dip in the lake.  The water was so clear, but quite cold so he didn’t last very long!  A more subdued evening followed – we cooked up some chorizo, vegetables and pasta which was nice after eating out for most of the trip so far and not long after, we were off to bed.

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VALDIVIA

Arriving in Valdivia it was noticeably cooler as we were now 12 hours south of Valparaiso.   We found Airesbuenos Hostel but could not check-in to our room so instead walked down to Feria Fluvial where large sea lions wait behind the fish markets for any left over scraps that may be fed to them.  I am not sure they need the extra scraps – those things are huge!  We stopped for lunch before boarding a cruise through the various rivers that surround Valdivia.  It was a bit of a tourist gimmick but the weather was nice, as was the scenery.  I can’t say we reaped the benefits of the informative talks as they were in Spanish but we enjoyed it all the same.    We stopped at some small river side towns and visited some old Spanish forts.  One of the highlights was towards the end of the trip when afternoon tea was served and the staff put bowls on the table for tips but Will thought the bowls were for putting our used tea bags in much to the amusement of the Chilean ladies sitting opposite us.

The next morning we took a bus out to the beachside town of Curiñanco and more specifically to Reserva Punta Curiñanco, a small national park located at the end of the road and accessed after paying a 1000 peso entry fee to a local family.  Joining us were some others from the hostel – Paula from Switzerland, Itimar from Israel and Pawel from the States. At first the path we hiked was rather enclosed, dense forest but then it opened up exposing hundreds of tall trees and through the trees, the ocean beyond.

It took around an hour and a half to walk through and afterwards we walked down to the beach, initially most of us with the intention of going for a swim but the combination of cool Chilean wind and the temperature of the water were enough to deter most – although Pawel braved it.  We had intended to catch the 2:30pm bus back to Valdivia but by 3:00pm it was apparent we had missed it.  On asking another local, they acknowledged the bus came at 2:30pm but then mentioned you had to be there at 2:00pm in order to catch the 2:30pm bus – no idea how that works but we were told similar for the next bus – 6:30pm but be there at 6pm. We took that as potentially 5:30pm and therefore waited from 5:00pm – just in case!!  It was quite the anxious wait to see if the bus did actually turn up and we could actually get back to Valdivia! On the way back we stopped quickly at Niebla, another small beach town before arriving at Kuntzmann Brewery which is probably best described as Disneyland for beer drinkers.  It was pretty tacky but we enjoyed a tasting of all of their 12 beers and had some German inspired meals before returning back to our hostel to bed.

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ODE TO VALPARAISO by Pablo Neruda

Valparaiso,
What nonsense
You are
What a crazy
Insane Port.
Your mounded head
Disheveled
You never finish combing your hair
Life has always surprised you
Death woke you
In your undershirt and long underwear
Fringed with color
Naked
With a name tattooed on the stomach
And with a cap
The earthquake grabbed you
You ran
Mad
Broke your fingernails
It moved
The waters and the stones
Sidewalks
And seas
The night,
You would sleep
In the ground
Tired
From your sailing
And the furious earth
Lifted its waves
More stormy
Than a tempest
The dust
Covered you
The eyes
The flames
Burned your shoes
The solid
Houses of bankers
Trembled
Like wounded whales
While above
The houses of the poor
Leapt
Into nothingness
Like captive birds
Testing their wings
Collapse

Quickly
Valparaiso,
Sailor,
You forget
the tears
and you return
to hanging your dwellings
to paint doors
green
Windows
Yellow,
Everything
You transform into a boat
Your are
The patched bow
Of a small
Courageous
Ship
The crowns nest
With foam
Your rope lines that sing
And the light of the ocean
That shakes the masts
And flags
In your indestructible swaying

Dark star
You are
From far away
In the height of the coast
Shining
And soon
You surrender
Your hidden fire
The rocking
Of your deaf alleys
The naturalness
Of your movement
The clarity
Of your seamanship
Here ends this ode

Valparaiso
So small
Like a cloth
Helpless
Hanging
Ragged in a Window
Swaying
In the Wind
of the ocean
Impregnated
With all the pain
Of your ground
Receiving
The dew
Of the sea, the kiss
Of the wild angry sea
That with all of its power
Beat the rocks
It could not
Knock you down
Because on your southern chest
Is tattooed
The struggle
The hope
The solidarity
And the joy
As anchors
Resisting
The waves of the earth.