BARILOCHE

When we finally had a look at the transportation options to head North to Bariloche we were slightly dismayed to realise flights were around $900 per person whereas the 28-hour bus ride was just a quarter of the price.  That being the case we were left with one option and booked the first of what would be many long bus rides through Argentina.

Smiles at the beginning of the 28hr bus ride.

Smiles at the beginning of the 28hr bus ride.

We arrived late in the evening and checked in to our Luxury Lakeview Suite – a little present for Will (which I too reaped the benefits of) as it was his birthday the next day.  We slept in late, recovering from the long bus ride before heading into the main town area to explore.  Bariloche was not really as we had both expected, while Lago Nahuel Haipi offers panoramic views in every direction, the town itself seems to have long surpassed the charm that many ski towns tend to offer.  That being said, it still has its drawcards… predominantly parillas (steakhouses) and chocolate – Bariloche is Argentina’s chocolate capital!  There is areas of downtown where the architecture is quite pretty too, with many buildings constructed of local woods and stone resembling log-cabins.

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Will’s steak campaign continued and in the afternoon we took a small chair lift up Cerro Viejo up to a lookout and were entertained by a short toboggan ride back down.  Later for dinner we went to an Italian restaurant for some pasta and we had the attention of the whole restaurant when the staff brought us desert singing Happy Birthday with a candle for Will to blow out (small fist pump for asking correctly with my limited Spanish)!

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On our second day we took the local bus to Cerro Campanario where after another chair lift ride we found ourselves surrounded by an absolutely stunning 360 degree view which has regularly been voted one of the top ten views of the world and you can understand why with exceptional views of the lakes and mountain peaks that surround you.

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Day 3, we caught the bus once more to Parque Nacional Nahuel Haipi where we hired bikes to complete Circuito Chico, a scenic bike ride around the Llao Llao Peninsula.   We stopped throughout to enjoy the panorama and took many photos with Argentina’s most famous Llao Llao hotel prominent in the background.  The water was crystal clear and an incredible bright blue unlike any colour we had seen in a lake before.  The bike ride was enjoyable and at times the hills were challenging but we pushed through and took joy in passing a number of people ‘walking’ their bikes.  We road to the Llao Llao hotel for a quick look before rewarding ourselves with pizza and beers at the end.  Some chocolate purchases in town and a final steak dinner and it was nearly time to say goodbye to Bariloche.Bariloche_082Bariloche_098Bariloche_074Bariloche_104Bariloche_081

More photos from Bariloche here…

EL CHALTEN & FITZROY RANGE

A three hour bus ride from El Calafate and we had arrived in El Chalten, a quiet little town surrounded by the stunning FitzRoy Range, the northern sector of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares.  El Chalten is a frontier town, only founded as the result of a land grab between Argentina and Chile but now a base for the many hikers and climbers that come to explore the region.  We walked the small grid of streets where the maximum speed limit is 20km/hr, not that it matters – there are probably more dogs than cars.  Our hostel – Aylen-Aike was located close to the river and we watched as the mountains changed with the setting sun.

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The following morning it was time to pull the hiking boots out once more (they had been hidden deep in our backpacks since Torres del Paine) and we set off with Laura and Andy on a day hike to Cerro FitzRoy.  We had a taxi driver drop us further into the National Park and walked along Rio Blanco before the climb to Cerro FitzRoy.  The climb wasn’t too bad (even with the teasing false summit) but the view makes it 100% worth it.  We really had picked the perfect day – blue skies surrounded us in every direction and we enjoyed the sunshine while taking in the marvellous Cerro FitzRoy and surrounding glaciers and lakes below.  Will decided to brave the icy cold water and ran and jumped in.  Needless to say, he didn’t last very long but he did gain the respect of many onlookers with only a few to follow suit.

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The walk back to El Chalten was long but also incredibly beautiful.  Looking back we watched the sun setting on Cerro FitzRoy while all around us the scenery changed from dense forest, rocky mountains and open valleys as we approached El Chalten.  It really was an incredible day hike – best described as many of the scenic highlights of Torres del Paine, packed in to one day.

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In the days to follow we chose short walks through the town over long day hikes, which was quite lazy of us, but I’m not sure that we had fully recovered from Torres del Paine.  We enjoyed reasonably decent coffee and toasted sandwiches at one of the local panaderias (bakeries) and for dinner, outside of cooking our own meals, Will had some of Argentina’s famous steak while I tried some Patagonian lamb stew.  We really enjoyed our time in El Chalten, it is a quiet, beautiful little town and I hope tourists respect that for years to come.

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