MENDOZA

It was a rude shock when the bus driver woke us up at 7am upon arrival in Mendoza.  On the overnight bus rides it seems as soon as you are finally in a deep sleep, it is time to wake up!  We stumbled out of the bus and caught a taxi to Hostel Lao, where at 8am we could not check in to our room so dreary–eyed, we decided to go and explore Mendoza city.

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Mendoza is considered a desert town however you wouldn’t guess it with the many leafy green trees that surround the city spaces.  The streets are lined by irrigation ditches and you really need to keep an eye out because they are not covered and falling into one could be quite disastrous!

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We walked to Parque General San Martin Mendoza’s 420-hectare urban recreational park, which was abuzz with locals cycling, running, picnicking and relaxing.  We admired the grand entry gates, walked around the lake, through various gardens and past a BMX competition before arriving at Mendoza Zoo, which really was a sad, timeworn place.  It is over 100 years old and I have no doubt it was quite amazing many years ago however now it is home to a handful of animals, all looking incredibly miserable in their tiny cages.  We left rather depressed and continued through the park, realising rather quickly that we were completely lost and proceeding to spend the next two and a half hours finding our way back, which in the 30+ degree heat after already walking five hours, was far from amusing.

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After taking it easy in Bariloche, we were determined to get active in Mendoza and the next afternoon we were picked up Diego, our modern-aged gaucho who was taking us sunset horseback riding through the mountains.  We joined around 15 others and took to the saddle, trying our best to look natural and not panic when Diego asked if we’d like to go faster.

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Our reward at the end was an asado (Argentinian BBQ) accompanied by some of Mendoza’s famous Malbec.  Diego pulled out his guitar and sang to us by the fire, winning over the hearts of many of the girls and we sat around drinking and singing until it was time to return to Mendoza.

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Unfortunately, for our poor return driver, the fun didn’t stop and the bus ride back consisted of us drunkenly belting out all of the classics – Bohemian Rhapsody, American Pie, any song we could remember half the words to!  I am sure our gaucho friends struggled to shake the sounds of us singing before bed that night.

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Starting our next day with slight headaches we decided to take a bus to Cacheuta, a short trip from Mendoza and home to various thermal springs.  We visited Termas Cacheuta Water Park, an open-air thermal baths complex located high on the edge of a valley.  We spent the afternoon moving amongst the different baths with various temperatures, the perfect recovery from our horse riding adventure.

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Lastly, we could not leave Mendoza without a trip to a winery or two!  The most popular area for day winery tours is Maipu however we opted to head towards the small sleepy town of Chacras de Coria where we hired bikes and after a short orientation set off on our own to a number of different wineries in the area.  We started at Clos de Chacras, a picturesque small winery where we enjoyed some delicious ceviche while tasting some of their wines.

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Continuing on, we arrived at a small family owned organic winery where we had lunch and walked through their cellars – some hundreds of years old with wine stains running down the walls.  We chatted with the owners and corked our own wine.

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A little tipsy we continued riding to Alta Vista, one of the largest wineries in the area.  We toured the winery and learnt about their various wine making processes which was very interesting – in particular that they only have women select the grapes for their top wine as apparently it is less likely for women to be colour blind (I thought perhaps it was due to attention to detail)!

Mendoza_216Mendoza_220Mendoza_237Mendoza_235Continuing on, we road along a quiet dirt road lined with large trees and with vineyards as far as the eye could see before arriving at a small family-owned business that specialised in sweet and savoury spreads, oils and liqueurs.  We slowly made our way through the different spreads and oils, dipping our small pieces of bread while discussing whether we liked coffee flavoured dulce de leche more than almond flavoured.  We then picked a couple of liqueurs to try – we both started with a sweet liqueur and then Will went for Tabaco while I picked Green Pepper – strong, spicy goodness!  Sadly our bike tour had come to an end however it was probably good timing as any more wines or liqueurs and we may not have made it back!

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PERITO MORENO GLACIER

We were picked up from our hostel in El Calafate nice and early for the drive to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, home of Perito Moreno Glacier – one of only three Patagonian glaciers still advancing (up to 2m per day)! The drive from El Calafate was beautiful with the 300m deep Lago Argentino to our side and the Andes mountains in the background.

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Arriving at Parque Nacional Los Glaciares in the morning, we first took a catamaran ride across Lago Argentino allowing you to view the Perito Moreno glacier closely from the water.  When confronted with it, it really is hard to gauge just how incredibly huge it is – 30km long, 5km wide and averaging 60m high!  Due to its constant advance, icebergs are forever carving from its face, which is absolutely incredible to watch and also to hear.  There is the sound of the ice cracking followed by the tremendous roaring sounds as the ice hits the water – it is something you really need to see to comprehend.  The irony of that statement is that on many occasions by the time you actually hear the sound it is too late and all you see is the waves from where the ice has hit the water already!

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The boat ride was fun however walking the many balconies that have been built to view the glacier was perhaps the highlight.  Will and I found our preferred balcony where as instant glacier experts we had determined the next large pieces to carve away.  It was like watching a game of tennis, constantly looking from right to left and with fear of looking away in case you missed any of the action.  On a few occasions our estimates were correct and we watched as large sections of the glacier wall crashed into the water below.  The waves that were created were incredible and washed loose pieces of ice hundreds of metres away.

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The first large piece we saw I was really excited because I had also caught it on camera but then on deciding to watch it back, somehow managed to delete it in the process – much to Will’s horror!  Luckily there were many more to follow and before we knew it, hours had passed watching the same section of ice – it was strange that something so loud and destructive was also so incredibly tranquil.

While we had been amazed by all of the glaciers on our trip so far, Perito Moreno Glacier is in a class of its own.  The incredible size of it, the visually stunning contrast of white and blue combined with the never-ending show as large pieces come crashing down results in a truly unique experience and one we will never forget.

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